Now of course everybody has heard of Alfred Wainwright – one of the most famous outdoor writers Britain has ever produced – but not everybody knows he was one of the Lake District’s pioneering sustainable travellers.
Wainwright was an avowed bus traveller who used public transport to get to the start of his now famous routes over the Lakeland fells. In fact he was reportedly a bit upset when his popular guidebooks led to carloads of visitors arriving to retrace his steps.
It seems very fitting that someone who had a such a deep connection with the landscape and did so much to help others appreciate it should also be a keen bus traveller.
In the footsteps of a legend
Of course it is far from us to question the wisdom of Wainwright and so we decided to follow in his footsteps by taking the bus to the beginning of some of his favourite walks.
#1 – Orrest Head
We thought it would make sense to begin by recreating Wainwright’s very first walk in the Lakes. It was his walk to the top of Orrest Head that opened his eyes to the beauty of the fells. Although Orrest Head itself is only a short stroll rather than a serious hike, it is one of those hills that acts as a perfect viewing platform for the higher fells. You can really see why the views would have whetted young Alfred’s appetite so much.
Wainwright walk to Orrest Head
The beginning of the walk is virtually on the doorstep of Windermere train and bus station. We got the bus from Kendal before heading off on our afternoon wander, but if you’re anywhere in the Lakes – or even further afield – there are loads of different buses that pass through the station every day all year round.
#2 – Stickle Tarn
Stickle Tarn & Pavey Ark
Even if you’re not interested in walking at all then we would still recommend you take the bus up Langdale. This is one of the most beautiful valleys in the country and trip on a bus gives you the opportunity to safely gawp, open-mouthed out of the window at the scenery (it also means you can safely enjoy a couple of pints at the New or Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotels).
The 516 bus (the aptly named Langdale Rambler) begins its journey in Ambleside and drops off at the beginnings of all the major paths that begin from the valley. This includes the picturesque track that heads up from the New Dungeon Ghyll to Stickle Tarn. Stickle Tarn is a magical place with the impressive rocky fortress of Pavey Ark rising on one side and a vista of Windermere and the Pennines on the other. Although we were feeling lazy on our visit, if you’re so inclined you can take the path from Stickle Tarn to Harrison Stickle and beyond.
However, we decided to take advantage of the late service being run on the Langdale Rambler to enjoy an early dinner at the New Dungeon Ghyll before heading home.
Harrison Stickle above Langdale – one of the famous Langdale Pikes
#3 The Lion and the Lamb
Grasmere is a starting point for a host of walks of varying lengths and difficulties, but by far one of the most popular is the hike up Helm Crag to see the famous Lion and the Lamb rock formation at the top.
Grasmere is served by both the 599 and 555 buses, both of which take a route through the very middle of the Lakes. While the 555 goes all the way from Kendal to Keswick the 599 services the shorter route between Bowness and Grasmere.
We got the train from Kendal and picked up the 599 (it was a glorious day and we could enjoy the open top) to Grasmere.
Wainwright wrote of Helm Crag’s rocky summit that it “gives an exhilarating little climb, a brief essay in real mountaineering”. A bit like Orrest Head, it is a small hill but one which gives a great view down onto Grasmere village and out to the higher fells. Its proximity to Grasmere also means it is not only easily reached on the bus, but conveniently close to great cafes and restaurants in the village. We certainly enjoyed our tea at The Jumble Room after that hike.
golakes travel 